One of the more recent areas to open to trekkers, the Tsum Valley is one of the Himalaya’s remotest areas. Surrounded by the Ganesh Himal, Sringi Himal, and Boudha Himal ranges, this region was once part of Tibet. The local people are of Tibetan origin with their own ancient dialect, art, culture and religion.
In the remote borderlands of the high Himalayas, several valleys are said to be Beyul’s – hidden or secret valleys that are only open to those with a very pure mind and heart. According to ancient scriptures, they were established by Guru Rinpoche, the 8th-century Indian saint credited with spreading Buddhism into the Himalayas and Tibet. Perhaps one of Nepal’s most beautiful valleys, it is cut off from the southern lowlands of Nepal by deep, forested gorges and swift rivers, and from Tibet in the north by snow-covered passes. The surprisingly flat valley floor provides for some 4,000 inhabitants of almost exclusively Tibetan origin.
Starting by trekking part of the Manaslu Circuit trek, you continue north to the Tsum Valley which was a restricted area until 2008. Still largely unvisited, it is relatively untouched. You start and finish at Arughat, seven hours drive from Kathmandu. The first half of the trek climbs into the Budhi Gandaki Valley where you follow good trails through forest, terraced fields and villages. After leaving the main Manaslu Trail for the Tsum valley, you enter a hidden valley where life seems to have stood still over time. You walk through alpine forests, cross glacial rivers, and enjoy the warm hospitality of the local people.
Trek grade: This is a Grade 3 trek as you climb up to 3,700m and walk several days of 6 hours or longer. However, you are below 3,300m for all but one day and the trails are good.
Inspired? Royal Mountain Travel also offers the Manaslu Circuit Trek that can be easily added to this itinerary.
Days | Activity |
---|---|
Day 1 | Arrive in Kathmandu |
Day 2 | Kathmandu sightseeing: Boudhanath, Pashupatinath, Patan |
Day 3 | Drive from Kathmandu to Arughat and Soti Khola (600m, 7-8 hrs drive) |
Day 4 | Trek from Soti Khola to Machha Khola (6-7 hrs, 890m) |
Day 5 | Trek from Machha Khola to Jagat (6-7 hrs, 1410m) |
Day 6 | Jagat to Chisopani (1660m, 4-5 hours) |
Day 7 | Chisopani to Chumling – Lower Tsum (2,386m, 6 – 7 hrs) |
Day 8 | Chumling to Chokhangparo – Upper Tsum (3,010m, 4-5 hrs) |
Day 9 | Chokhangparo to Nile (3,361m, 5-6 hrs) |
Day 10 | Nile to Mu Gompa (3,700m, 3 hrs) |
Day 11 | Mu Gompa – acclimatization |
Day 12 | Mu Gompa to Burgi Village (3,245m) via Milarepa cave: 5 hours |
Day 13 | Burgi village -Chumling (2,386m, 5-6 hrs) |
Day 14 | Chumling to Philim (1,570m, 6-7 hrs |
Day 15 | Philim to Khorlabesi (970m, 6-7 hrs) |
Day 16 | Khorlabesi to Soti Khola (700m, 6-7 hrs) |
Day 17 | Soti Khola to Arughat to Kathmandu (1300m, trek 4 hours and drive 7-8 hrs) |
Day 18 | Departure |
Trekking: Additional information
Please note that the published itinerary can only be a statement of intent and should be used as a guide only. Each day may vary due to the walking times of the group, camping and trail cond
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Arrive in Kathmandu
Arriving at Tribhuwan International Airport is an experience in itself. Don’t let it put you off, as our airport representative will be waiting to welcome you with your name written on a placard. Depending on traffic, the drive to your hotel takes about 20-30 minutes.
Kathmandu sightseeing: Boudhanath, Pashupatinath, Patan
The day is spent visiting some of the major World Heritage Sites of Kathmandu. More…
You will have plenty of time in the afternoon to prepare for your trek and check that you have everything you need. You might want to visit Thamel, the tourist hub of Nepal where you can easily find all you need for trekking. Or if you just want to relax, there are many cafes and bakeries serving excellent local tea and coffee. It is best to avoid the street food, however, unless you have a very strong stomach. It is recommended that you have an early night as you will have an early start in the morning.
Drive from Kathmandu to Arughat and Soti Khola (600m, 7-8 hrs drive)
After an early start, you are driven to Soti Khola where you start your trek. Travelling by private jeep, this takes 8-9 hours. The road passes through Dhading Bensi and Arughat, and then to Soti Khola. The roads get a little rough from Arughat.
Trek from Soti Khola to Machha Khola (6-7 hrs, 890m)
Starting from Soti Khola, you trek past rice paddies, fields, and waterfalls through lush and green scenery, passing through villages with houses that have dark slate roofs. Crossing a suspension bridge over the Budhi Gandaki River, the first part of your trek follows the narrow, deep Budhi Gandaki valley through dense forests and terraced farmland. Passing the Gurung village of Labubesi you climb behind a rocky outcrop, where the valley opens and follow the meandering Budhi Gandaki before climbing over a side ridge. You descend again to the river and to Machha Khola village.
Trek from Machha Khola to Jagat (6-7 hrs, 1410m)
Following the narrow trail and crossing the Tharo Khola you reach Khorlabesi. You climb for much of the day, passing more villages and always accompanied by beautiful mountain scenery. After crossing a suspension bridge over the Budhi Gandaki, you climb a well-made staircase and head towards Dobhan. After crossing another suspension bridge, you climb more stone stairs and then descend to crossing to the west bank of the Budhi Gandaki where you enter the Manaslu Conservation Area and arrive at the beautiful paved village of Jagat.
Jagat to Chisopani (1660m, 4-5 hours)
At Jagat, your ACAP pass is checked and you climb a rocky ridge to Salleri, descending to Sirdibas. The valley widens as the trail continues to Ghatta Khola. You go upstream to a long simple hanging bridge and then climb up to Philim, a large Gurung village. Passing Philim you head north through a forest to Chisopani.
Chisopani to Chumling – Lower Tsum (2,386m, 6 – 7 hrs)
Crossing the gorge you soon reach a large waterfall before entering pine tree forests. You descend to a trail going to the Tsum Valley. Along the way, enjoy the views of the Himalchuli mountains and Boudha Himal. Passing the attractive village of Lokpa you go down towards Lungwa Khola, and then climb the trail for a couple of hours through the forest to Gumlung. Crossing the Siyar Khola you finally arrive at Chumling. Here you can visit the old Chumling gompa, and explore the stone streets of the village.
Chumling to Chokhangparo – Upper Tsum (3,010m, 4-5 hrs)
Starting by crossing a suspension bridge to the other side of the river, you have great views of Ganesh Himal. Crossing another bridge, you reach Gho Village. After another couple of hours climb, you reach the village of Chhokangparo where if it is clear, you have a good view again of Himalchuli (7893m) and Ganesh Himal (7140m).
Chokhangparo to Nile (3,361m, 5-6 hrs)
You pass Lamagaon, crossing a rope suspension bridge to reach Rachen Gompa, also known as the Nunnery Gompa. You pass the villages of Lar, Phurbe and Pangdun, and see the old stupa as you cross Chhule village. Following the river upstream you cross a bridge to finally arrive at the Niley. If you have time, you can visit the monastery of Chhule that is not far away.
Nile to Mu Gompa (3,700m, 3 hrs)
You are now close to the Tibetan border. Walking up the valley, the landscape is different and looks much more Tibetan. Following the old Nepal-Tibet caravan path, you reach Mu Gompa. Close by is the oldest monastery in the valley – Dephyudonma Gompa (4060m) that was founded about 700 years ago. The history of this monastery is directly associated with the beginning of Buddhism in the valley. The monastery houses religious books, a life-sized statue of Avalokiteshwara, and images of Guru Padmasambhava and Tara. The surrounding landscape is dotted with mani walls, chortens and kaanis (gateway chortens).
Mu Gompa – acclimatization
Today is a day to acclimatize and explore the area. Mu Gompa is the largest monastery in the region and lies at the highest and most remote part of the Tsum Valley. Mu Gompa and Rachen nunnery were both established in 1936 by Drupa Rinpoche, a Bhutanese lama who meditated in the caves close to the current location of the monastery. There are around 20 monks living in a monastery with the younger ones going study in a nearby village.
You can hike to the base of Pika Himal (4865m) for views of glaciers, Tibetan peaks, the Ganesh Himal and other surrounding mountains. The area is home to blue sheep, yaks, naks, chauris and the rare sighting of pika.
Mu Gompa to Burgi Village (3,245m) via Milarepa cave: 5 hours
Trek back through Chhule and Phurbe, on the east bank of the Shiar Khola. Finally, we arrive at Burgi village. The Burgi village is a small beautiful village. Climb up to the Milarepa’s Cave (piren phu) that is one of the most sacred caves in the Tsum valley. The Buddhist Yogi Chyuchin Milarepa is believed to have meditated here. There are two separate gompas attached to the rocky cave which houses life-size statues of Avalokiteshvara, Buddha, Tara and Milarepa. There are richly painted Buddhist murals, artistic scripts carved on stones, prayer flags and Buddhists scripts making this cave one of the most important cultural points of interest in the valley. From here too, there are good views of Poshyop Glacier, Kipu Himal and Churke himal.
Burgi village -Chumling (2,386m, 5-6 hrs)
Retracing your steps, you return down to Chhokangparo again and continue down through the lower Tsum Valley to Chumling.
Chumling to Philim (1,570m, 6-7 hrs
Continuing down you reach Lokpa and after lunch heading south on a flat trail, you keep going to Philim, passing the lovely Samba Falls along the way. A trail passes through the Phillim village that leads to the Ganesh Himal Base Camp.
Philim to Khorlabesi (970m, 6-7 hrs)
Today you trek to Khorlabesi via Jagat and Tatopani. Descending to Sirdibas you reach Jagat and then go down to Yaruphant. The arid Tibetan landscape now gives way to subtropical green vegetation. Passing Dobhan you reach the hot spring at Tatopani where you may want to take a dip to soak away the aches from your tired muscles.
Khorlabesi to Soti Khola (700m, 6-7 hrs)
The trail crosses the Tharo Khola as it flows down a rocky ravine. You head down again to the river and cross over to reach Machha Khola village. Following the Budhi Gandaki River, you get pass Labubesi and then the two waterfalls that fall from the side of a cliff. Reaching Khursane you walk along the ridge above the river and finally cross a bridge to arrive at Soti Khola.
Soti Khola to Arughat to Kathmandu (1300m, trek 4 hours and drive 7-8 hrs)
After an early start, you climb up to the ridge of Kyorpani and trek to Arkhet where you cross the Arkhet Khola to leave the Budhi Gandaki Valley. Passing Sante Bazaar, you go through forests to Maltar. Finally, passing the hydroelectric plant, you follow the stone street into Arughat Bazaar where your transport will be waiting to take you back to Kathmandu.
Departure
You transfer to Tribhuvan Airport to connect with your onward flight. Please note that you should check in three hours prior to your flight time.